There are several different parts that make up a router bit and understanding each of these and what they do is integral to they’re use. The main router bit parts to note are the shank, the body, the cutting edge and if it has one the bearing guide. Essentially the shank is the part of the bit that your router collet grips on to so that when the motor is running it allows the bit to rotate and do its work. Generally, router bit shanks are available in two different sizes; 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. The chamfer or bevel cutting bit is commonly used for shaping the edges of objects such as book shelves, work tops and table tops and any other object where a sharp 90° edge needs to be removed. Synopsis: Decide what’s more important — the tongue or the shoulder — and you will know the best method to use for cutting a particular rabbet. Despite the simplicity of the joint, it’s not as cut and dried as it seems. Sometimes a tablesaw and dado blade is the best method; other times, you’ll want to turn to the router table.

For the router-table method to be both safe and successful, you must use the proper bit. Although a rabbeting bit seems logical, most are not designed for this application. On most rabbeting bits, the carbide cutter extends proud only on the top and has relief angles ground in the carbide to reduce burning. The bottom of the bit is often an afterthought, with the main body sometimes extending below the actual cutter. Some have a shear cut which, although beneficial when cutting from below, impedes the cut if used above since it directs chips to the base of the cut, which is exactly where you don’t want them to be. Also, many rabbeting bits do not have a long enough shank for the cutter to get to the proper height without seriously compromising how much of the bit is in the collet. Use slot-cutting bits The v-groove bit is very similar to the core cutting bit above but rather than leaving a rounded shape, the v-bit cuts a “V” shaped channel that runs down to a point.On its own, the router is useless, but coupled with the correct bit you can create a masterpiece! To these ends here is a run down of the most popular router bits and different shapes or mouldings they cut. Straight Cut Router Bits Again as with other router bits that need to cut accurately, these bits also feature a pilot bearing guide fixed to the base of the bit. As the bit is also non-guided e.g. it does not feature a bearing it can also be used to great effect for hollowing out objects. If you are fairly keen on carpentry and joinery, the router is one of the best power tools you can have in your tools arsenal as it can be used for a huge variety of jobs from cutting hinge recesses, mitering worktops, trimming and shaping edges to cutting a whole variety of timber joints. Rabbet or shoulder joints are a common type of joint used when making furniture, specifically for building drawers and joining together cabinet framework.

Straight bits are perhaps the most frequently used type of router bit since they can be used in a wide variety of applications. While in a class of their own, straight bits are usually used for cutting different types of square-shaped grooves. These grooves can be cut with the wood grain (the technical definition of a “groove”), against the wood grain (called a “dado”), or along the edge of wood to produce an L-shaped shoulder or “rabbet”. All of these cuts are often used for joining two pieces of material. For example, the mortise and tenon joint is a very popular and sturdy joining technique that can be easily made with a straight bit. Aside from joinery, straight bits can also be used for mortising in door hardware, or for grooving a channel where a decorative inlay can be inserted. They can even be used in place of more specialized bits (like rabetting, described below), which contributes to their impressive versatility. Rabbet cutting router bit and rabbet or shoulder joint cut – Image courtesy of mullerconstructionsupply.com Edge Cutting Router BitsMore often than not, these are generally shaping or moulding bits that are used to create specialist moulding’s and shapes, sometimes two in a single pass. V-bits as with most other decorative cutting bits come in a range of different shapes and angles that can be used to form everything from a deep thin channel to a wide shallow one. Or I could use my new table saw to cut twice and get a rabbet like that... but I was wondering why I'm finding it difficult to source this - usually there's a reason, right? The depth of the cut is determined by the size of bearing fixed to the base of the bit and due to this, rabbet bits normally come with a selection of different sized bearings so that you can cut a range of different depth joints.

To be fair, I've only really used my router for putting nice edges on right-angled pieces of wood, plus my latest attempt at a rabbet. What I would like to do, though, is (realising that I must bite the bullet for building some jig / sled type thing) build myself a crosscut sled so I bought some 18mm plywood last night, and some wood for the runners and some for the fences... I do my work in the garden so if the weather holds out I'll give a crosscut sled for the Bosch GTS 10 J a go later today...These bits come in two forms: single and double. Single rounding-overs create their profile on a single edge, producing a quarter-round effect. The double rounding-overs bits cut the bottom and top edge simultaneously, making a full half-round profile. Chamfer or bevel cutting bits are also available in a range of different cutting angles including 11.25°, 15°, 22.5° and 30° allowing you to create a range of different shaped objects. The purpose of the bearing is to allow you to easily guide your router bit along a piece of work so that your (normally) shaping or detailing work is kept straight and accurate. This project should be read in conjunction with our project on how to use a router found here. What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit? Is it because a trim router and a 1/4" bit would just find that too hard, even if I did multiple passes?

The name edging bit or edge cutting bit is a bit of an umbrella term as there are several different types depending on eth shape of edge you want to create. Typically edging bits are available to cut the following shapes: Sets such as these include all the essential router bits you will need for pretty much any carpentry project and although they may not give the most accurate of cuts or stay sharp for long, they will allow you to practice and hone your skills to the point that you can then justify spending a little more on some decent bits. Router Bit Types

What are the Different Parts of a Router Bit?

What distinguishes these bits from others (like a straight bit used for rabbeting) is the addition of a circular pilot bearing at the bit’s tip that acts like a spinning wheel riding along the edge of the piece being cut, guiding the cutting arm to the perfect depth. As a result, the width of the cut is determined by the size of the bearing, with a smaller bearing producing a wider cut. The most common sizes of rabbet bits are 1¼ inches and 1⅜ inches, and most bits come with several interchangeable bearings ranging from ⅜-inch to 1⅛ inches. The straight cutting router bit is arguably the most commonly used type of router bit. As the name suggests it’s used for cutting straight cuts with a flat base e.g. the channels at the side of drawers that the drawer bottom sits in and certain timber joints such as a lapped joint. The rabbet cutting router bit is specifically designed for cutting rabbets, not the small cute furry ones found in most gardens but the rabbet joint or shoulder joint as it’s also known ( find out all bout rabbet or shoulder joints in our project here). Glue joint bits assist joining two pieces of material by creating identical, adjoining tongues on the edge of both pieces. The notched cuts create plenty of surface area for gluing and form a tight-fitting joint that holds the pieces together while they’re being clamped. They’re available in two varieties: standard and mitered. The standard glue joint joins squared edges, while the mitered bit is made with a 45-degree angle to join two mitered edges.