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Primer: A primer is a specific type of paint designed to bond well to the surface it’s applied to, and give a smooth surface. This provides a great base for future layers of paints. Primers are available in many colors. Prime in either Games Workshop Contrast Undercoat Wraith Bone Spray or Army Painter Color Primer White
The reason you want to prime white is because of the transparent nature of these paints. In the picture below I have a mini that’s been primed both white and Death Guard Green and went over it with The Army Painter’s Peachy Flesh. You’ll see that you get the “true” color over white and over the green, the undercoat shows right through. With Contrast Paints, Speed Paint, and XPress Colors, your primer, undercoat or base coats make a very big difference. For this, I rubbed the upper half of the bases with a wet cotton swab to take away the paint from the edges, aiming for an easy highlight effect. As you can see, after 30 minutes, yet despite rubbing hard, I could barely get any paint off the edges of the details. Though a slight discolouration was visible on the cotton swabs. In some areas, I was able to scrape off the paint, but that was more due to the mechanical stress. After 2 hours of curing time, there is even less discolouration going on. Except for a few colours like Tyrion Navy. After 24 hours, reactivation is almost a non-issue, though I can still detect minor discolouration for some of the colours. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red is a bit more crimson and produces slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy. In June of 2022, a second round of 27 new colors were released. This release has a slightly different formulation and are generally speaking more consistent than the original. They are:
Fast, Easy, Fun!
Assembly Line Painting: If you are painting multiple figures, this technique is fantastic. If you’re painting 5 orcs for example, you might start with painting all the skin green. One at a time. Then add leather boots to each. Then add steel paint to the axes.
This is helpful if you want a very specific color. Contrast paints work by allowing the medium the pigment is suspended in to flow into recesses and give a darker look while keeping a bright look on raised surfaces. The A-Stand – AMMO presents an exclusive new range of lacquer-based, high- performance paints designed for modelling use. Formulated with ultrafine pigments, A-Stand is a range of professional paints that offers extremely realistic finishes difficult to match by other brands on the market. The A-Stand range offers a complete solution for the modeller: it includes an extensive colour chart of metallic and transparent tones, as well as primers and varnishes. These paints provide perfect results for any modelling subject, whether aircraft, military or civilian vehicles, figures, science-fiction and fantasy, or dioramas, providing a highly durable finish when dry. Why do you need A-Stand? The excellent fluidity of A-Stand products makes them easy to spray without clogging the airbrush. They also provide a tough and durable finish once dry, allowing the application of any other lacquer, enamel weathering products, or acrylic paint on top without issue. A-Stand products dry to the touch in a short period of time of approximately 30 minutes, depending on the amount of paint applied, ambient humidity and temperature. The A-Stand paint series includes various lines of products used to apply a range of effects and finishes on your models. What are the advantages of A-Stand? The range of A-Stand…
The original release had some issues with reactivation, meaning if you put another layer on top of a speed paint, it would become liquid again and blend into whatever you were doing. I’ve converted up a New Zealand 3NZ Division for pacific games of bolt action ( Yes there were New Zealand infantry in the Pacific, you can read about them in this excellent book “Pacific Star” by Reg Newell), these were made with a mixture of Warlord Games British Infantry, US Marines and Chindit figures, along with North Star heads in forage caps. I’ve used Osprey’s The New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War II as a reference for these as well as photos in Pacific Star. New Zealand force being batch painted prior to base detailing and varnishing In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.
From these videos you can observe all kinds of techniques that apply to each program being used and to all forms of digital drawing & painting.
Other Applications
Undercoat: A first layer of paint on the miniature. It can also apply to a primer, but it’s not necessarily a primer. Undercoats are simply an application of paint or primer that you intend to put another layer of paint on top of. For my The Army Painter Speedpaint review, I painted Contrast, Speedpaints, Instant Colors from Scale 75, and Antithesis paints from Warcolours on a sheet of plasticard that I primed with Corax White primer. I photographed the sheet under 5500K neutral light to reproduce the colours as authentically as possible.
They often need multiple coats to achieve a similar level of richness. Also, the pigment-based formula doesn’t really work with zenithal shading, as the opaque pigments will gather in the dark recesses and make them brighter, which is not exactly what you want.Magic Blue is a little darker and more intense than Talassar Blue, but with a little thinning it would be very similar. Highlord Blue is a little lighter and more of a prussian blue than Ultramarines Blue, while Cloudburst Blue is very similar to Leviathan Blue. In terms of turquoise, The Army Painter only has a single colour, Plasmatic Bolt, which is similar to Aethermatic Blue, but much deeper and darker. To come up with the 2.0 formula, The Army Painter collaborated with some well-known painters from the YouTube community. A brilliant approach to designing products in my opinion. Goobertown Hobbies, Dana Howl, and “Watch it paint it” were asked to provide their input, and even come up with a bunch of new colours themselves. Speedpaint 2.0 contains a more stable acrylic resin which forms a stronger bond. It is promised to no longer reactivate after a curing time of about 2 hours depending on the environment. Which means there should be a time window of at least 2 hours for blending and reactivation. Or shouldn’t it? Spoiler: yes but no.
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