Other CLEAR TRANSPARENT PLASTIC TWO HOLE JIGGER BACKING BUTTONS 15mm 20mm 23mm (10, 16mm)

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It also shows how nice a variegated horn button is on this cloth – and perhaps how it would look with a normal 6x2 button configuration on the front. Partly that’s because it’s hard to get a good one off the peg, but mostly it’s because of those two risks: of looking over-smart and anachronistic. This is how women’s wrap coats are made – more blanket that coat, just loosely brought together at the waist.

I should add that the cut and structure of a DB can also contribute vastly to how casual it looks. But this post is about rules on how any DB should be worn.) A lapel style in which the lapel juts outward and upward toward the shoulder. Typical of evening wear, morning dress, and non-business suits. When I got my first DB, decades ago, some very ancient, sage and classically dressed gentlemen instructed that if one happened not to be a member of the armed forces or a brass band and nevertheless desired to wear a DB suit, that these were the rules: To sew loosely together with long, easy-to-remove threads so that a garment can be temporarily held together to be tried on. Used in the full custom process to perfect the customer’s pattern. In trousers, an interior button tab which releases tension from the main buttons and zipper of the fly.Third, some of the details make the coat a little too showy. And this is a note for Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The vertical line that runs from a trouser’s thigh down to them hem. Ideally, it will bisect your knee. So you basically have three options for fastening the coat: tied with the belt, fastened a little more loosely with the jigger, or unfastened completely. The trench coat is also traditionally double-breasted, single-breasted versions being civilian interpretations of the original military-derived fashion. Other coat styles typically featuring a double-breasted construction are the Guards Coat and the greatcoat styles of overcoats. The Chesterfield coat may be found in either single or double-breasted.

The diagram below shows how the hook and bar are normally positioned for a waistband that has an extended tab such as on the Dior Homme trousers above. The diagram also shows the position of the small internal button, sometimes called a jigger button, that helps to take some of the strain off the hook and bar closure. This internal button must be placed accurately so that the hook and bar can sit closed correctly. If the jigger button is not taking the strain of the waistband, then the hook and bar closure will look as though it is pulling open. A common shirt pattern with stripes of equal width in two colors, typically white with something else. So called because they originally shipped to world markets from Bengal, India. The belt itself also gives you a few different ways to wear the coat - varying by how open you leave the coat before tying it.

I found this made the coat stand out even more than the length, and hard to combine with other things (the last thing you want in a coat). It’s usually only possible to break the rules well when you know why they are there, and therefore what you are giving up. So there are two different styles, that if you ask me, demand being wore two different ways. And I can see how if you are only familiar with one or the other, you can see why there are two sides to the “bottom button” rule. It’s fun researching old designs then recreating or reinterpreting them, finding cloths etc. I can’t post a pic but I can post a link to the picture of Mr Laurel that inspired the coat. Some minefields and ten-foot bargepoles here. Whether one looks old-fashioned, contrived, stiff, or anachronistic depends on so many outside factors, most of which bear no relation to tailoring or the clothes themselves. Celebrities, for instance, get away with anything. Because people don’t just look at the clothes. They look at the wearer.