GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Coelia Greenshade (24ml), (Pack of 1), 9918995302506

Product Information

The next step is to wash them heavily. I use a mix of Agrax Earthshade, Reikland Fleshshade, Contrast MilitaruM Green, Coelia Greenshade, and Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh. I play around with different combinations and styles, and at this point I’m not worried about overlap or mixing colors. Turns out zombies still shamble the grim darkness of the 41st millennium, albeit in a more colorful, cheerful form. Specifically, I’m talking about the Death Guard’s Plague Zombies, who tend to allow for a lot of brig combinations of greens and yellows while also having lots of tentacly appendages. You can get as bright and colorful as you want with them, or keep them more subdued and realistic. I chose the former. On the more comedic side, Shaun of the Dead is an all-timer for the way it blends comedy and pathos, effortlessly switching between taking the piss out of zombies and exploring the drama around difficult decisions that have to be made in the name of survival.

The hides were done in the same way as the Hobgrotz, only with a traditional brush instead of an airbrush. The shoulder and leg armor is also done the same way as the Hobgrot armor. The metallic faces are done with Contrast paints over metallic. Gore-grunta Fur for copper, Nazdrag Yellow for gold, and Skeleton Horde for a sort of dirty silver. The large face was Apothecary White over metallic, with bright white metallic (Scale 75 Speed Metal/White Alchemy) drybrushed over it. I find it really useful to paint the heads as a separate subassembly, it really helps to get the faces right if you have 360 degree access to them, rather than struggling to paint them when they’re surrounded by a high collar. For Horns I generally use Banshee Brown, Skrag Brown, or Deathclaw brown. I do like to get a bit fancy sometimes. I like to try and wet blend from a Deathclaw Brown or Skrag Brown up to the Banshee for a nice little growth gradient. I’ve done a few where I start with a Vallejo Beasty Brown or Charred Brown to the Deathclaw and then to the Banshee for a real shift in colors. You can help with this gradient by doing a second wash on only the darker part of the gradient after the first has dried. I have also found you can get some interesting effects if you use a second color wash before the first has dried completely – like doing a Reikland or Carroburg over the Agrax just at the very base where it comes out of the flesh. Just make sure to wash your brushes so you don’t cross contaminate your wash pots. Eyes

RYB

I also painted a Wargames Foundry soldier with an overcoat on using Games Workshop Nighthaunt Gloom to make it look like a spectral soldier. In Dracula’s America he’ll be a ‘Vengeful Shade’ that the necromancer can summon and send at the enemy posse. Again I was able to achieve an identical look but the new formula made it much easier. In the first image I’ve had to drybrush heavily with Heavy Metal and apply edge highlights in some places to get the look I wanted. With the new formula I did…nothing. The bell is much the same process, though I’ll hit this with Typhus Corrosion as well to give it an aged patina. The pale skin is a two part process. Like the Hobgrotz, the hero is countershaded but the effect is much more sublte.

As an avid Ork/Orruk fan, Gutrippa Green instantly got a hearty WAAAGH out of me. It’s a nice mid-tone green that is saturated enough to be applied in one coat straight from the pot, but still provides the depth of the original “contrast look.” It can be cooled down to a more blue green, using the new Poxwalker Green Shade (as seen on the Bad Moon above) or warmed up using something like Kroak Green, or even Athonian Camoshade, for a more earthy green.Adding some history behind the colours, I started with Deathguard (off-white, brass and green) in my mind with millenia of rot and neglect, turning the armour a slimy mucusy green. Next, we magically cut to a stage where the armor and skin look better. Pay attention to the skin tones. The shadows have been further darkened with purples, reds, and browns, while the highlights have been further brightened with creams and greens. The skin itself is less desaturated thanks to green ink, which is transparent and allows us to tint the color gradient underneath. The wound on the stomach (along with several other points of interest on the skin) has been darkened (reddened) to look inflamed and highlighted with bright pink spots. Gross!

Middle: spot highlight bronze fleshtone with previous mix. I like to make this layer more splotchy/stippled/sketchy. Most of the new Contrasts are both vibrant and a little transparent. This makes them absolutely perfect for near instant plasma weapons. Just be sure to prime white and paint everything except the plasma coils first. This way you don’t risk tainting the pure white base coat on the coils which is the key to this technique. For the blue one, it was just a coat of Frostheart Blue (which is also perfect for ice weapons). I then immediately took a bit of Contrast Medium and wiped away the center where I wanted the white glow to be. That’s it! The green was very similar except I applied Ironjawz Yellow to the white first. Ironjawz Yellow, unlike Bad Moon or Imperial Fist, is much more transparent and behaves like the usual Contrast paints. Once that was dry I applied Striking Scorpion Green and again used Contrast Medium to wipe away the center and push the green towards the recesses. You can do the same thing with Ironjawz Yellow and Magmadroth Orange for a much more chaos-y plasma as well. [Editor’s Note: Holy shit Darcy, this is incredible] I know what you’re thinking. This isn’t technically a Nurgle Daemon. This is a Daemon Prince of Nurgle. Get over it. It’s got the Nurgle Daemon skin we’re looking for. To get the skin to the above-pictured state, I’ve zenithal highlighted the whole model with white ink, anti-zenithal low-lighted with purple ink (i.e., shot purple ink up, onto the underside of everything), then applied Elysian Green straight on (i.e., not at an upward or downward angle, just straight on). Lastly, I mixed 50/50 Elysian Green with Menoth White Highlight and sprayed directly down. You can see the shadows and highlights are somewhat exaggerated and some of the wound recesses are purple too. Wood: Charadon Granite (OOP), Wash TAP Dark Tone Ink, Drybrush with Charadon Granite (OOP), P3 Bastion Grey, Highlight with P3 Bastion Grey, P3 Trollblood Highlight, Wash with TAP Strong Tone InkThe first round of base coats are for the skin, and this is pretty much what you can see. I used Carroburg on the more evidently Tyranid hybrids and then various flesh contrasts for the more human range skin tones.

Nurgle Daemons are perfect for a new painter – They offer a ton of variety, but they’re very forgiving and take to Contrast paint very well. We’ll talk about a few different ways to paint them, but ultimately the big things you’re going to have to figure out are how you handle grime and snot on your minis. TheChirurgeon’s Method For the ridged sections between any carapace plates, basecoat with Xereus Purple and shade with Druchii Violet

Corrode’s Method

I built up the flame effect with a thinned coat of VGC Livery Green [ Moot Green with a bit of white] and then Scorpy Green [ Moot Green], leaving the recesses white. I’ve since been seeing a lot of Marines that have a similar scheme that I have fallen in love with, the great unclean colour-scheme of Nurgle. Any flesh I want in a grey-dead flesh colour and I want the armour ornamentation to be a really worn brass and the armour itself to be heavily rusty around all the edges and areas that would attract wear. The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

…